
The science behind how heat sprays work and what to consider before recommending products to your clients
Nothing takes the oomph out of a great cut or color like damaged strands. Luckily, there are products that can help combat the damage we do by blow drying, curling, dying, teasing, and otherwise over-handling our hair. But what is the science behind heat protectant products and does it actually make a difference? We're exploring what makes heat protectants work, and the key things to look for in the products you use and recommend to your clients.
Heat Damage: What High Temperatures Do To Your Hair
In short, heat damage breaks down the cuticle layer of your hair which reduces it's ability to prevent against breakage. Most hot tools get up to 450 degrees-- which is far hotter than what our hair would endure naturally. When the cuticle breaks down, so do the properties of your hair that retain moisture. High temperatures can alter the keratin structure of your strands as well, leading to dull, damaged locks.
What Does Heat Protectant Do?
There are a variety of products on the market that label themselves as a heat protectant. You'll find it as an oil, mousse, cream, spray, and more. The most common is a spray that features silicone as an ingredient. What does silicone do? Well for starters, it heats up very slowly. Meaning you diffuse some of the heat you're putting onto the hair by virtue of it not getting quite as hot quite as fast. It acts as a primer or barrier on your hair, wrapping it up like a layer of armor that stands between your hair's cuticle and your hot tool.
Can I Prevent 100% of Heat Damage if I use a Spray?
Not quite. There are several factors that impact how quickly hot tools cause damage. The temperature, duration, and frequency of how often you style are all factors. As are other aspects of your hair routine like how often you cut or color your hair. Over processed hair is already weakened and it's extra important to utilize a heat protectant when styling your hair.
Are There Other Ways to Prevent Heat Damage?
Yes! If you're someone who cranks your hot tools all the way up to their highest setting so the styling process can go faster-- hold your horses. The hotter the tool the more likely it is to do damage. Styling with a lower setting whenever possible combined with a heat spray is the best combo to prevent intense damage while achieving the style you want.
Another great way to prevent damage is to condition your hair before styling. Studies have proven that moisturized hair has less broken fibers after styling than those who didn't condition.
What Should I Look For In Heat Protectants?
There are quite literallly thousands of sprays, mousses, oils and beyond to choose from. But to narrow your search we recommend you look for a product that provides the maximum temp they protect up to and make sure its within the range of how you're using your tools.
You'll want to familiarize yourself with some of the scientific names for silicones: Dimethiconol, cyclopentasiloxane, amodimethicone, cyclomethicone, and silicone quanternium-22 are all great high-temperature protectants to look for in the ingredients list of products.
If you see products that rely on glycerins, note that they will be better suited for blow drying as they can only protect temperatures up to 300 degrees F.
Are There Any Additional Benefits to Heat Protectants?
Yes, many include styling benefits! From finishing results like less frizz and softer strands to styling aid like fixative elements-- you can find heat products with all sorts of 2-in-1 properties. This is another great thing to consider for your clients when recommending products that will help them achieve the at-home style they want. If you know they're too busy to do a several-step routine, suggest a product that can tackle multiple things at once to make their day easier.
What's the Verdict?
Heat protectants are most definitely the real deal. While they can't prevent 100% of damage, you're doing yourself a disservice if you don't use one as part of your regular styling routine. Just make sure it's got the right ingredients and protection level for your styling needs and get spritzing!
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