Stop Mixing 5 Shades to Get One Result

The SOHO Color Simplicity Guide for Busy Stylists

When it comes to color formulas, I’m a big believer in keeping things simple. Sure, watching someone mix multiple shades and tones like a mad scientist is fun on the ’gram, but when my 1pm turns into a surprise color correction and my 3pm is already hella early? I need a foolproof formula my overstimulated brain can actually handle.

Concocting a custom color formula can seem like magic, but it’s really just about having a good roadmap. We need to know where we’re starting (natural level), where we’re going (desired level), and who’s showing up to the party along the way (hello, natural remaining pigment!)

Developer choice is kind of like the vehicle you’re driving: 5 volume is a bicycle, 10 volume is a scooter, 20 volume is the reliable Honda you’ve had since college, and 30 volume is a racecar running a little rich. 40 volume? She’s a bulldozer, handle with care.

IMO, the idea that each increase in peroxide strength gives a corresponding increase in lift is flawed. When working with alkaline color, the lift is in the tube. (Fun fact: most color lines increase their working ammonia as the level rises.) What this means is that alkaline color mixed with developer creates an oxidative process that will always lift the natural pigment in the hair. With 5 volume, this process is a subtle, super clean shift that’s perfect for softly blending a few scattered greys or creating a long-lasting toner. 10 volume has become my go-to for grey coverage because it doesn’t lift past my target and expose too much NRP. These days, I only reach for 20 volume for coarse or resistant grey, or for clients who want a warmer result.

So how does this all circle back to SOHO? Because SOHO keeps it simple, starting with a true neutral base that doesn’t leave you fighting unwanted warmth. Tonal values are formulated by level and are true-to-swatch, so there’s no guesswork about the reflect you’ll see in the final result. The ash shades are cool without going muddy. A streamlined system of 59 shades means no decision panic from an overwhelming, and often unnecessary, number of options. SOHO also eliminates the need for an entirely separate alkaline toner system, which saves me both space and money.

My go-to formulas might not seem exciting, but they’re efficient and that matters when you’re running back-to-back color on a fully booked day. The .0 series and .3 series in equal parts goes on at least 80% of my grey coverage clients. The .1 series is my first choice for seamlessly blending that warm band near the root that sometimes pops up on a balayaged brunette. A 10.80 global gloss is the perfect pick for bright blondes who want a little sparkle. And the GOAT: the .63 series mixed with .3 (ratio depending on NRP) for a long-lasting gloss on brunettes and brondes. SOHO takes the guesswork out of formulation so you can focus on what actually matters: creating beautiful hair for your clients! 

Interested in SOHO for your salon? Check out our Complete Intro Kit

Happy coloring!

Julie 🖤

Grey blending with 5.0 and 5.3 and 10 volume

Global gloss with 10.80 and double 5 volume

Global gloss with 7.63 and 7.3 and a tiny drop of 7.56 with double 5 volume