The Power of Neutral : True Tone. No Fight.

We’ve mastered the consultation, now it’s time to take a stroll through our favorite neighborhood to meet the shades that will get us to our goal. Let’s talk about some SOHO formulas that I’m always reaching for in the most versatile color family: the neutrals!

Neutral shades are the workhorse of any color room. What makes the neutrals of SOHO so special? The fact that they are actually neutral. Not warm-ish, not cool-ish, but the kind of solidly neutral shades that you can build any formula on. I have a personal pet peeve when it comes to a color range that promises neutral but actually leans so warm that I’m doing extra work just to adjust. When lifting with alkaline color, you will always have to take natural remaining pigment into account, and I need a true neutral that works with me instead of against me. SOHO makes sure you don’t have to worry about fighting the tone in the tube on top of that. It’s almost like it was designed by hairstylists for hairstylists, am I right?

If the goal is golden, I build a warm neutral formula by combining the .0 series and the .3 series in equal parts to create rich but balanced shades. I use the same reasoning to build a cool neutral formula with equal parts .0 series and .1 series. The .0 series is so trustworthy that it builds the foundation of almost everything I do, because it gives me the ability to add any tonal value I need.

The .3’s are definitely a sunkissed series. I use them alone when I want a pronounced warm result. She also builds a gorgeous natural copper when you add a quarter of your formula worth of the .4 series. This series also comes in clutch when you need added depth and pigment for grey coverage.

Need a whisper of warmth on lighter shades? I reach for the smallest but mightiest series in the SOHO lineup: the .03 series. This series by itself produces a delicate warm result that was made for glossing. She always makes that golden or buttery blonde shade look effortless.

Now the .00’s get a little tricky when deciding where to put them to work. We know the double neutrals are made for grey coverage, but when should we reach for them? My rule of thumb is to use .00 when I have 60% grey or more on medium to coarse density, or on those clients whose greys like to be stubborn. I always pair the double neutrals with some gold on higher percentages or resistant grey. It’s important to replace some of the natural remaining pigment to avoid a hollow result. Keep in mind that “double neutral” is just a fancy term for extra pigment in the tube. The extra pigment gives the color more opacity and can sometimes appear a half level darker than the corresponding .0 series.

Pro tip: 7.0 is my go-to for a natural-looking lowlight on blonde. A level 7 has never failed me, and a SOHO neutral never leaves me in the mud. If you have an over-lightened or porous canvas, make 7.03 a quarter of your formula to fill without excess warmth.

I can’t wait to see your SoHo creations! Till next time,

🖤 Julie